Appropriation of the Blackletter Font in
modern fashion
Today in Mexico blackletter can be found
mostly in folk functional graphics such as fascia lettering, signage,
do-it-yourself advertisements and labels; it has also proven its popularity in
tattoos, concert posters and less – but still present – in graffiti. Don't be
mistaken by the contents of this book and believe that most folk Mexican
lettering a set in blackletter, however. Unquestionably, most folk graphics use
roman type in its serif or sans serif versions. The purpose of this book is to
show the presence and anatomy of blackletter in contemporary Mexico, and no
examples of roman type are included. The blackletter that adorns countless
small stores, shops and service providers all over Mexico has a long history
that today enjoys a wholly Mexican twist that caters to the everyday needs of
people, from plumbers to cobblers and everything in between. More than a way to
create signage, Mexican
blackletter speaks volumes about contemporary Mexican culture. There are
many explanations for why blackletter is popular in Mexico. The country's
overwhelming colonial Spanish background is still present today, not only in
the collective unconscious, but also in buildings, plazas and entire cities,
some of which use blackletter in their signage to appeal to tourists, who visit
these places to see colonial remnants.
Blackletter in
Mexico is also associated
with Christianity, from divine elegance to exuberant transcendence.
Rooted in European religious traditions, the lettering possesses the quality of
being above and beyond the normal. The same as the religious applications of
blackletter instilled European practitioners with the importance of meditative
devotion, the secular uses
of blackletter in Mexico today convey the importance of such daily and simple
practices as selling tortas or shoes, and symbolizes the fact that these
acts are not just silly little hobbies, but people's lives. Why wouldn't a
merchant or craftsperson advertise their service through a form that imparts a
sense of lasting for a long time, or even being eternal? Mexicans are fond of
ornaments, colour and contrast because they elicit laughter and fantasies,
rituals and sense of place. One needs only to visit the nearest marketplace
where all of this is bundled into one tangle of sensory overload. The songs of
local music mix with the endless chatter of merchants hawking their wares, from
an abundant range of fruits and vegetables, to herbs and plants sure to cure
what ails you, to colourful textiles. Every step of the way, as often as the colours
change, so too do the aromas wafting off piles and garlands of flowers, and the
carts of food vendors, grilling, frying and peppering regional delicacies. This
is a significant reality of everyday life in Mexico and the perfect point of
entry for understanding the contexts in which blackletter is embraced and used.
The letterform's characteristics rely on ornaments and
contrast, which are both playful and mysterious at the same time. The same as the market engulfs the shopper
with its array of stimuli, the conjunction of blackletter characters overpowers
the background. Blackletter heavily anchors the symbols by means of its robust
structure. It is this structure of the blackletter shapes – amusing,
flamboyant, and even comical – that establishes the dialogue with the viewer.
Why is Blackletter Popular in Mexico? From talking to the people that decorate
their body with it, or that draw the letterform on a sign, I have discovered
that Mexicans feel that
blackletter communicates “tradition,” or that “normal letters”—Roman
type—just wouldn’t be good enough for the particular message they need to
express. More so, many who elect to employ blackletter for tattoos, signs and
anything else imaginable believe that it takes the written message to a
“religious” level and therefore, implicitly, associates the message with a kind
of transcendence. In speaking with people, words such as “tradition,” “religion,” and
“historical” continually surfaced.
One stylistic example is the blackletter
typeface or Gothic lettering. Although it has European origins, it’s most renowned for being
adorned on memorial garbs
created by Chicano communities in LA. These commemorative pieces of
clothing were made to honour friends or family members who passed away.
Nowadays, however, the typeface is observed on concert merch or one-off capsule
collections, more notably on Kanye West’s ‘The life of Pablo’ wares designed by
Vancouver-born artist Cali Thornhill DeWitt, as well as war.
For graffiti
artists, the use of blackletter is a direct link to the “Cholo” (Mexican-American) culture, given
that Cholos and Chicanos frequently select this letterform for tattoos, tags
and murals. Many tend to describe it as “elegant” and others simply state that
they use it because they “like it,” and that’s it, no need for more
explanation. More times than not, in light of my questions, many people looked
surprised and simply stated, “it’s beautiful,” “it’s different” and for them
that is all that matters. Just
raising the question of why they choose blackletter made some people
uncomfortable under the pressure of having to verbalize an un-rationalized
aesthetic whim.
Honestly, I can see both sides. I can see where someone might be offended, but at the same time, I can get the other person who says it's really not that big of a deal. And why is it that only Caucasian women are being called out & accused of cultural appropriation? How come nobody bats an eye when women of color straighten their hair for example, which one could argue is more of a "white women's hairstyle". Or when women of color deliberately lighten/bleach their skin (a la Beyonce for example?) It's awful funny how the 2 former Destiny's Child members were much darker than Beyonce & got the least attention, before Bey ended up going solo. In my opinion, Michelle & Kelly were way more attractive than "Queen Bey" And as far as the whole chola style, it may have been most popular amongst Latinas, but back in the 90's, I remember seeing women of every color walking around with heavily hairsprayed bangs, earth toned makeup, very dark lipstick, winged liner, often wearing tight or short tops with baggy pants, it was more a 90's style in general than it was solely a Mexican style. Plus I've also seen people of every color wear Dickies brand, or have ultra thin eyebrows. I used to get mine waxed super thin, but it wasn't because I was imitating Hispanic females, I actually got the idea in the 90's from all of the famous women who were also wearing thin brows, such as Kate Moss or Pam Anderson for example. Now some things I agree may be taking it out of hand, like someone wearing a Native American headress. That does feel offensive, because you can't argue that those were ever worn by anyone other than Native American folks. But I just wish that people would stop blaming everyone who is paying homage to other cultures & styles and calling it appropriation, when it's really actually a compliment to a particular culture or ethnicity. If we keep waving the cultural appropriation flag every time someone experiments with a certain look or style, we're only continuing to separate cultures & tear apart diversity. Isn't it time we stop the segregation? Who cares if Gwen Stefani wears heavy makeup like the girls she grew up with in high school? So because she copied a look, she should have to pay the girls she went to school with? That's ridiculous. Look at all of us non famous people. Where do we get our inspiration from? Can't anyone remember back in the 90's when every girl went to their hairdresser to get their hair done like Jennifer Aniston from the popular tv show "Friends"? So if a young black female decided to imitate that look & got a wig/weave to copy her is that also appropriation? Give me a break. Paying homage is not disrespectful & not cultural appropriation. With so many bigger issues in the world right now such as Covid-19, let's stop whining about the clothing, makeup, & hairstyles of celebrities please. It's so petty & unnecessary. Live & let live! If you're offended by Gwen or Lana Del Rey, change your channel...or get over yourself.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't categorize "women of color" straightening their hair as "cultural appropriation" it is not as if they want to straighten their hair, they feel pressured to do so. I also would not call them "women of color" Black women is better.
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