“Oversized” is a widely-used
adjective to describe the clothing purveyed by some of the hottest brands
today. As we presumably continue to get bombarded with elongated fits, it’s
important to note that
this baggy aesthetic was first made popular by the Mexican American youth who
belonged to a street gang in Southern California. Whether it’s the
high-waisted zoot suits worn by Pachucos in the ’30s-’40s or the buttoned-down
flannels sported by Cholos in the ’60s-’70s, Chicano motifs have long been
implemented on the racks and catwalks over the years. From budding labels to
high fashion houses, many
industry players have more or less leeched off the subculture that was
initially spawned from social oppression experienced by Latino locales since
the Mexican Repatriation of 1929—an unfortunate circumstance when the
U.S. government deported approximately 2 million people of Mexican descent. The
list of brands who have added new threads to this intricate web of Chicano
appropriation keeps on growing. One stylistic example is the blackletter typeface or Gothic lettering.
Although it has European origins, it’s most renowned for being adorned on
memorial garbs created by Chicano communities in LA. These commemorative pieces
of clothing were made to honor friends or family members who passed away.
Nowadays, however, the typeface is observed on concert merch or one-off capsule
collections, more notably on Kanye West’s ‘The life of Pablo’ wares designed by
Vancouver-born artist Cali Thornhill DeWitt, as well as war. Aside from the
font, other designers have riffed off other prevailing Chicano references
including slang. Japanese mainstay, WTAPS, once created a shirt dubbed “Vatos”
and Retrosuperfuture used to sell a pair of shades back in 2008 which was
simply entitled “Chicano.” Let’s also not forget how several pop celebs blatantly seized the Chola
aesthetic including Selena Gomez (Congratulations to Me), Rihanna (circa 2013
Halloween) as well as Lana Del Rey (Tropico). Conclusively, there’s just
too many to count. Chicano culture should be treated with respect. This is a
culture with values and traditions not a style or fashion trend. Today’s
fashion industry is graced with the influences of so many cultures and
subcultures. I think that’s what keeps fashion so exciting. Chicano and Cholo
fashion have always had direct influence on other “street” cultures with the
crossover of music and style. For example, skate culture with white socks
pulled up to the knee, punk culture with plaid flannel shirts buttoned to the
neck, hip-hop culture with baggy Dickies and oversized shirts. All in all, I’m quite happy to put my
Chicano style influence on the runway and give it full credit to its source.
Shes half mexican
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